Please welcome Joy from 21 Wale! Joy knows all about sewing for school boys. Thanks for stopping by Joy!
My boys are 9 and 10 now. They've had mom-made clothes for several years and still express exuberant appreciation for them, but now they are much more involved in the process. They help pick fabric, patterns, and details. And now that they're older, their opinions are much more realistic than they used to be!
One of my favorite things about sewing for boys is the DETAILS. With girls' clothes, fabric is often the highlight. But with the more subdued fabrics we tend to use for older boys, the fun details are key.
And what detail is both interesting and useful? The pocket, of course! I thought I'd show you one method to assemble the classic cargo pocket.
Cargo Pocket Tutorial
Step 1: Make the pattern piece and cut out the fabric, adding seam allowances to each edge.
If you want to convert a patch pocket (in other words, a square) into a cargo pocket, just add extensions. My extensions are equal to my seam allowance of ⅝". In the photo you can see that I have added a seam allowance in addition to my pocket extensions.
It's easy to do a shaped or rounded pocket, too. Just cut a long strip (plus seam allowance on both long edges) for an extension and sew it around the edge of the pocket.
Step 2: Finish the edges.
This is optional. I suppose it's highly unlikely the pocket edges will fray to pieces sooner than the knees wear out. But you never know!
Step 3: Press under and stitch the pocket hem at the top.
Step 4: Press all the fold lines.
One set of pressed lines are outlines of the main pocket piece. The other lines will be at the seam allowance edges.
Step 5: Stitch the corners.
Pinch the corner, turn pocket inside out and stitch on the pre-pressed corner line, which is perpendicular to the edge. Before trimming, flip the pocket right side out to check. Repeat for the other corner.
Step 6: Press the accordion folds of all 3 edges.
Push the pocket extensions in and press. The fold will be centered.
Step 7: Topstitch.
This is optional, depending on how you want your pocket to look. Do three separate lines of stitching, rather than one long one around the pocket. Otherwise, when you turn the corner, you'll catch the folds of fabric.
Step 8: Pin the pocket on the garment and stitch.
The stitching you're doing here is just like topstitching; I usually start at the top edge of one extension, and go around the pocket, slowing down to neaten the corners.
Probably the trickiest part of the cargo pocket is positioning the pocket extensions so that they are stitched directly under the pocket piece. It's easy for them to slide outward.
Step 9: Optional - Add a flap and velcro, snap, or button.
Here's a small sampling of cargo pockets. There are so many options!
Thanks Joy! Great tutorial!
Susan @Living with Punks says
Awesome! I know I will be using this for my boys...Thanks!
Ashley @ Cherished Bliss says
What a great tutorial! I hope you will share at my party! : )
http://www.cherishedbliss.com/2011/08/craft-and-tell-no-19.html
Jordan (Wayward Girls Crafts) says
What a great tutorial--lots of photos, detailed steps. You make it look easy (or at least easy enough to understand!).
craig h says
Thank you Joy for sharing this info. Very helpful
Brightness Musasa says
Awesome! What a wonderful tutorial and easy to follow, surely I will use this for my cargo pockets.
Barbara says
Thank you! These directions beat Sandra's Betzina's directions in Vogue 1515. Couldn't have gotten through the cargo pocket without these great step-by-step instructions. The pictures at Step 5 showed me what I was doing wrong. I also like the topstitching idea and will give it a try.
laila says
Thank you for this easy steps. it's useful
have a nice day from Malaysia
Adam Bradford says
hi, i'd like to ask how you did the other cargo pocket (the one with the line going down the middle part on the pocket) thanks.
Designer menswear says
Pocket is very useful part of clothing. Everyone need it.
Designer Menswear says
This is great clothing thank you very much for this!
ande says
God bless the internet! Thank you for a clear and concise tutorial. ?
Jess says
I love this! So easy to follow. Quick question what is you pattern piece dimensions?